Transition Day

Like all the grand tours you need days to get from one location to another, but still ensure they have something to offer. Today was mainly the views, but also the transitions of culture and history. The Tyrol region seems to have flip flopped between Italy and Austria for so long, the towns and villages, particularly in Italy, have a very Germanic feel.  Only after Bolzano does the Italian culture really emerge.  In fact much of this region has only been Italian since the end of World War 2, so good to see national identity has been subsumed by European friendships.  The border crossings almost unmarked, but the landscape also transitioning from pure mountains to vineyards and lakes.  The route took us through the Brenner Pass, dating back to Roman times and earlier, and where Hitler and Mussolini agreed their pact of steel in 1940.



A quick mention of our Austrian hosts in Gasthof Neuwirt, certainly worth a look if you are in those parts, a great springboard for travels in the area, perhaps a little bit over priced for the facilities, but we were in peak season.  The mixed reviews on trip advisor about right I would say, somewhere between average and above average https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g641750-d1230321-Reviews-or5-Gasthof_Neuwirt-Tulfes_Tirol_Austrian_Alps.html#REVIEWS



So car loaded I did a bit of the driving for the first half of the journey, down to the motorway, swapped places for Chrissi to take us the wrong way, then got back in to do some of the motorway driving in the right direction, before Chrissi finished off the journey with the tricky off motorway stuff to Costermano with Bryn suddenly waking up and finding a nose for direction like we have never seen before.

So we hit our third country of the tour, and first stop was a service station of course, second stop a supermarket car park next to our Ait Bnb.  Very hot and sweaty in these parts, lugged the luggage (wait a minute, they sound familiar words) and got told all the dos and a lot of don'ts by our host Gianni.  Lovely house named after Juliet of Romeo and Juliet fame, Verona just a quick Montague or Capulet away.

We all have a bit of a cold which is ironic in the sweltering heat, but couldn't have a whole day of doing nothing. Google maps said Garda (town and lake) was just over 3ks away.  I was all set for a run, but instead we walked down, pretty steep in parts, but easily done, and the lake in all its glory got nearer and nearer.

Hit the more touristy bits first, then arrive on the shore of the Lake, with the sun reflecting off it, and quite the sight to behold.  Glad we all decided not to let the day fritter away now eh? A meander along the fringe and we came to a pebbly beach of sorts, with lots of good looking Italians prancing and parading around.  Bryn felt he fitted right in, shame he was with the gawkward squad in our aged surf shorts and the like.

Didn't stop us diving into the cool, cool lake, and what a great way to wash off the days travels, and wake up a bit.  Was beautiful fresh water, the kind of open water I can get along with, not a big fan of the sea.

The walk 3ks back was mainly uphill but hardly a complaint and now I know what I need to run over the next couple of days.  We showered and then visited a very local pizzeria for the best meal of the trip so far.  Nice bottle of zenato rose, and a delicious pizza, salami, cheese etc  Great service, sound ambience and a lovely pace to see the evening through.

-Carys-

The final day of bells, and our final hours of the Austrian alps. We were up and out, early enough,  but not without having a nice, filling breakfast first.

We said our goodbyes to the gorgeous views - even though we had no doubts that Italy would offer us its own set of delights for our eyes - and the turtles in the tank downstairs. I felt bad leaving them cooped up, but it wasn't really my place to demand their freedom.

The drive was about 2 hours, and we stopped at a service station for some tasty snacks t keep us going through the morning. The sun was blindingly bright at the services and lovely and warm on our skin. It was a great chance to soak it all up.

Travels over, we parked in the car park of the next door supermarket, where me and mum later bought a couple of things to eat and drink in the room. I think we'll pop down in the morning as well for some bread and cheese, and maybe some yoghurt and fruit for breakfast.

The apartment has an old-fashioned, rustic style and is named Casa Giulietta after Juliet from Romeo and JUulet due to its similar balcony. We settled in, which was quite hard because of how hot everything was, and decided to 'wander' down to the Lake Garda.

It was quite a walk but we had a lovely time looking at all the pretty little hotels and restaurants. The lake itself was of course perfect. It glistened and shimmered in the sunlight, and and the waves rippled gently against the rocks.

We found a small area with sunbeds and parasols next to a little bar. It was free, which we found very fortunate, since normally for this type of thing you'd be charged. We all had a swim, even mum who usually hates getting in the water for longer than 2 minutes. She agreed that the water wasn't freezing.

In fact, I think it was the nicest stretch of natural water I've ever been in. It wasn't salty water since it was a lake, not the ocean. The waves weren't too high and were just enough for you to have fun in them without being swept away every 5 seconds. The temperature was warm once you'd got used to it. It was a thoroughly enjoyable start to our time in Italy.

Choosing to eat at the pizzeria near our apartment instead of one down by the lake, we trekked back upwards this time, feeling tired but excited for dinner. It was very rewarding to have a tasty pizza waiting for you at the top of the hill.

Mine was tomato, mozzeralla and brie - delicious. Ir was large though, as you can imagine, so I've brought some back to the apartment with me to enjoy tomorrow. We'll get a lie in tomorrow, I hope - though of course Dad will be up at the crack of dawn, offering the option of a sweaty (yet pretty) run along the lake. I think I may decline the offer. Sorry Dad :)

E Bikes, bringing multi ability families to the top of mountains since 2019

After an early driving lesson it was time to do more of the stuff I am good at - eating large breakfasts and cycling up mountains.  Our last chance to emulate the Griswold dream sequence but far too much action on the mountain bikes to break into song

Only stalled once today, so I might be allowed out on my own soon, and we were able to combine the little jaunt around with a visit to the bike shop to explore this thing called E bikes, that one of the staff at the hotel we are staying at recommended over breakfast.  He actually recommended this as Chrissi was brazenly making 4 cheese and ham sandwiches to take away from breakfast, having already eaten all the food on offer including one or two more national favourites.

80s adverts

We all then went to collect our bikes, take a look at some routes, have a practice in a car park (works better on E bikes than cars apparently) and then headed up ... and I do mean up ... however it was like having someone provide an extra push all the way up.  I tried to not use the light speed option too often, there were 4 boosters and I stayed in the bottom 1 or 2 for most of the climb to ensure a bit of a work out.  What was great though was it evened up the family ability, we all stayed together, and were able to enjoy the switch backs, views etc My original plan to try an hour or so up a few climbs turned out to be 3000 foot up an Alp with all the sweeping splendour that entailed.

head up there somewhere

cheating?

altogether now

good signs

we love cycling

It went something like this

https://www.relive.cc/view/r10006945685

We stopped at around 2000m up the Glun Gezer to mark the occasion with a hot chocolate and rum. There was no snow or stray St Bernards so was a bit of a leap of imagination but hey ho.

It was then down, down, down, caught most of it here

https://www.relive.cc/view/r10006945861

Was absolute exhilaration on the downhill, slightly cautious on the breaks and turns but keeping a good 30km/hr at times and avoiding joining the fir trees, belling cows, or just plain mud however I could. Stopped for a lovely sarnie at a panoramic viewing platform, they taste so well at height, even better when they are free :) Kept on going down in short bursts, giving the others chance to catch up, and making sure all reached the bottom safe and sound - just the one mishap, am sure Carys will elaborate.

adrenalin flowing

views to die for

pit stop

Bryn and I had a little extra burst on the false flat to Rinn, both to max out at 54km/hr and get a Bryn in Rinn shot.  Another lovely little alpine village.

punchy climb

An hour or so back at our lodgings, worth a mention, paid a few more quid than I might have liked by booking in advance, but now we have managed to secure full board, am less bothered, and have had a lovely, if a little hot room, and almost used to the church bells going off every 15 minutes now.

We caught the local bus the 12k down the mountain to Innsbruck for a bit of a wander. Quaint little town, the alt stadt always the place to head for when in these places I find. A bit of germanic architecture, fast flowing river, painted houses, and dining outside in one of the many squares.  We hit the bratvurst tonight, washed down with a bit of local beer.  Visited a couple of shops, but it was a flying visit, and we were back on the bus winding its way up the mountain and into our room just as the sun was setting. 

bus you know whats

got eduroam underneath the arch

we ate just to the left

fast running river from a glacier?

saurkraut etc

local delights

bus ride home and we get this!

-Carys-


Today was supposed to be a more relaxing day - but of course, us being us, it wasn't. My hopes for no bell wake up call weren't fulfilled, and at 6:30 am, once the ringing had stopped, all you could hear was our moaning.

We fell asleep again soon after, and following breakfast we were out and off on yet another day of adventure. Today was biking, and unexpected idea that only sprung up in the past few days. What made it more unexpected was the fact that we were using powered bikes instead of regular bikes - a new experience. They gave you extra boost wen pedalling and turned out to be very helpful.

oh this idea was being mooted for a while

Going up was difficult, but mostly simple. We didn't really get lost and just followed the trail up, up, up to a c able car station, where we stopped briefly for a drink. I say briefly, because I really wanted to get out of there, since it seemed infested with flies, because everywhere you looked you could see a small winged creature darting about.  Not very nice.

lord of the flies

good parking up top

Coming down was much harder. We hadn't anticipated the weather and temperature of the top of mountain, since we didn't really know where we were cycling to, so hadn't really taken any layers to keep warm. Gripping tight onto the bakes of the bike made our hands stiffen and feel sore. It didn't he;p that I fell of my bike and grazed myself. I sort of saw it coming. This obviously made the descent down harder, but I managed - it's  not like I broke my leg or anything. The steepness of the trails was just a bit scary.

the bells, the bells.. still

hello up there

goodbye up there

tentative down

After we chilled a bit - and I'd cleaned up my minor injuries, we jumped on the bus and went into the city of Innsbruck. It had lortz of pretty architecture and buildings, as well as nice shops to nose around.

shop

til you drop

The Swaroski shop was particularly impressive, with its pretty jewels and gems. We took lots of photos, and then sat down in a restaurant with tables on the front of the street. Somehow I managed to spill apple jucie on myself - I'm very clumsy sometimes. Food was  nice, and I went to buy some icecream from a gelato store later on too.

mcgowan spoiling for a fight

cowing bad mood

memories are made of this

Tomorrow we leave for ITaly, sio i've got some packing to do now. Thanks Austria, you've been lovly.