Wednesday, 31 July 2019

Transition Day

Like all the grand tours you need days to get from one location to another, but still ensure they have something to offer. Today was mainly the views, but also the transitions of culture and history. The Tyrol region seems to have flip flopped between Italy and Austria for so long, the towns and villages, particularly in Italy, have a very Germanic feel.  Only after Bolzano does the Italian culture really emerge.  In fact much of this region has only been Italian since the end of World War 2, so good to see national identity has been subsumed by European friendships.  The border crossings almost unmarked, but the landscape also transitioning from pure mountains to vineyards and lakes.  The route took us through the Brenner Pass, dating back to Roman times and earlier, and where Hitler and Mussolini agreed their pact of steel in 1940.



A quick mention of our Austrian hosts in Gasthof Neuwirt, certainly worth a look if you are in those parts, a great springboard for travels in the area, perhaps a little bit over priced for the facilities, but we were in peak season.  The mixed reviews on trip advisor about right I would say, somewhere between average and above average https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g641750-d1230321-Reviews-or5-Gasthof_Neuwirt-Tulfes_Tirol_Austrian_Alps.html#REVIEWS



So car loaded I did a bit of the driving for the first half of the journey, down to the motorway, swapped places for Chrissi to take us the wrong way, then got back in to do some of the motorway driving in the right direction, before Chrissi finished off the journey with the tricky off motorway stuff to Costermano with Bryn suddenly waking up and finding a nose for direction like we have never seen before.









So we hit our third country of the tour, and first stop was a service station of course, second stop a supermarket car park next to our Ait Bnb.  Very hot and sweaty in these parts, lugged the luggage (wait a minute, they sound familiar words) and got told all the dos and a lot of don'ts by our host Gianni.  Lovely house named after Juliet of Romeo and Juliet fame, Verona just a quick Montague or Capulet away.






We all have a bit of a cold which is ironic in the sweltering heat, but couldn't have a whole day of doing nothing. Google maps said Garda (town and lake) was just over 3ks away.  I was all set for a run, but instead we walked down, pretty steep in parts, but easily done, and the lake in all its glory got nearer and nearer.






Hit the more touristy bits first, then arrive on the shore of the Lake, with the sun reflecting off it, and quite the sight to behold.  Glad we all decided not to let the day fritter away now eh? A meander along the fringe and we came to a pebbly beach of sorts, with lots of good looking Italians prancing and parading around.  Bryn felt he fitted right in, shame he was with the gawkward squad in our aged surf shorts and the like.




Didn't stop us diving into the cool, cool lake, and what a great way to wash off the days travels, and wake up a bit.  Was beautiful fresh water, the kind of open water I can get along with, not a big fan of the sea.

The walk 3ks back was mainly uphill but hardly a complaint and now I know what I need to run over the next couple of days.  We showered and then visited a very local pizzeria for the best meal of the trip so far.  Nice bottle of zenato rose, and a delicious pizza, salami, cheese etc  Great service, sound ambience and a lovely pace to see the evening through.






-Carys-

The final day of bells, and our final hours of the Austrian alps. We were up and out, early enough,  but not without having a nice, filling breakfast first.

We said our goodbyes to the gorgeous views - even though we had no doubts that Italy would offer us its own set of delights for our eyes - and the turtles in the tank downstairs. I felt bad leaving them cooped up, but it wasn't really my place to demand their freedom.

The drive was about 2 hours, and we stopped at a service station for some tasty snacks t keep us going through the morning. The sun was blindingly bright at the services and lovely and warm on our skin. It was a great chance to soak it all up.

Travels over, we parked in the car park of the next door supermarket, where me and mum later bought a couple of things to eat and drink in the room. I think we'll pop down in the morning as well for some bread and cheese, and maybe some yoghurt and fruit for breakfast.

The apartment has an old-fashioned, rustic style and is named Casa Giulietta after Juliet from Romeo and JUulet due to its similar balcony. We settled in, which was quite hard because of how hot everything was, and decided to 'wander' down to the Lake Garda.

It was quite a walk but we had a lovely time looking at all the pretty little hotels and restaurants. The lake itself was of course perfect. It glistened and shimmered in the sunlight, and and the waves rippled gently against the rocks.



We found a small area with sunbeds and parasols next to a little bar. It was free, which we found very fortunate, since normally for this type of thing you'd be charged. We all had a swim, even mum who usually hates getting in the water for longer than 2 minutes. She agreed that the water wasn't freezing.

In fact, I think it was the nicest stretch of natural water I've ever been in. It wasn't salty water since it was a lake, not the ocean. The waves weren't too high and were just enough for you to have fun in them without being swept away every 5 seconds. The temperature was warm once you'd got used to it. It was a thoroughly enjoyable start to our time in Italy.

Choosing to eat at the pizzeria near our apartment instead of one down by the lake, we trekked back upwards this time, feeling tired but excited for dinner. It was very rewarding to have a tasty pizza waiting for you at the top of the hill.

Mine was tomato, mozzeralla and brie - delicious. Ir was large though, as you can imagine, so I've brought some back to the apartment with me to enjoy tomorrow. We'll get a lie in tomorrow, I hope - though of course Dad will be up at the crack of dawn, offering the option of a sweaty (yet pretty) run along the lake. I think I may decline the offer. Sorry Dad :)







5 comments:

  1. What a wonderful sounding day. The pictures are fab too. I love the ones of the mountains, so steep, yet so green, wonderful. I've only driven into Italy from France, which has far less of that kind of countryside.

    I like Lloyd's allusion to 'going in the wrong direction' - so how did that happen? We need the details :-)

    I love the sound of the Lake, Lake Garda has always appealed to me, but I've never made it there. You clearly made good use of it, Carys, you seem very enthusiastic about it. Which is good.

    Carys, as ever, is writing so well. The pizza which is mentioned almost in passing in the first section, becomes alive and I can almost taste it from the description. I also love you being able to tell your Dad via blog that you are having a lie-in in the morning (which I assume is today by now) - a great way of doing family communication :-)

    Thanks for the great details and keep on enjoying.

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    1. Thankyou Haydn. The pizza truly was amazing. Italy isn’t exactly known for its Brie cheese though, so I’ll try to choose a more Italian-style meal whilst we’re still here.

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    2. I remember trying a cheese called Alpino in Italy. I think it is the nearest the Italians come to Brie.

      Still Italy has lots of good cheeses of its own, but its soft cheeses, like Gorgonzola, are often more pongy than we are used to.

      Mind you I love pongy cheese.

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  2. we have been the wrong way already many times, usually a motorway junction or car park to turn around in and a few minutes lost here and there, but we get to see different stuff right? :)

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    Replies
    1. I like that way of thinking. Though only once in Canada did we end up going back the way we came and once around an industrial estate to get us on to the right side wasn't the most impressive of sights 😄

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Hats all folks

Weirdest breakfast ever, in keeping with our rather cheap and cheerful, rough and ready, raggedy Prague hotel. Hot Dogs for tea is it boys?...

 

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